Friday, May 17, 2013

Roush TVS2300 Installation

Roush TVS2300 Installation

First of all, big thanks to the guys at Dutli Garage in Zurich and especially Nico Seiler for doing an extremely clean and professional installation. These guys are perfectionists and they never rush with their work. Check them out at www.dutli.ch

I will not go through the entire installation details but here are a few important interesting bits that especially helped a lot with the installation.

Machined Timing Cover

The most scary part of the install is machining the front timing cover on the engine. Ford does not ship these timing covers as compatible either with their Ford Racing or the Roush superchargers. There are aluminium ribs and bosses that need to be trimmed down and cut in half, which otherwise make it impossible to install the new belt and idler pulleys of the supercharger. it is a terribly difficult 5-6 hour job to do and extremely scary as not many people are naturally feeling comfortable cutting pieces of the engine covers!

From www.bulecollarperformance.com you can order a premachined timing cover for $150 and just simply choose to replace the timing cover instead. Here is a beautiful picture of how the naked coyote looks like when you remove the timing and valve covers.


I would highly recommend this job to be still done by professionals as it is not easy to remove all the pulleys and harmonic balancer. 

Electrical Wiring

I dont know about you guys but the only thing I hate most about any installation is working on wires. It drives me crazy reading through the manual over and over to make sure I cut the right wires and get the repinning correctly. It is a messy job. If you miss a pin or do a wrong connection you might easily damage your electrical system and even if it does not, it will be a huge mess trying to deal with computer error codes after the install.

Remember those VMP Plug&Play wiring harness I mentioned before in the "parts list" page? BUY THEM! They prooved to be extremely efficient and easy to install. Simple plug and play and you wont have to cut, repin any wire. This job would normally take 2 hours alone. With these cable extensions, it is a 10 min task.

Rest of the Installation

With the timing cover cutting and wiring out of the way, the rest of the installation is quite straight forward. Here are some pictures.


Drivers side view before Throttle Body installation. It just looks so bad ass!


Front bumper removed for installing the supercharger heat exchanger, intercooler pump and hoses. 




Roush TVS2300 pulley and idler system. Those two black idlers are 75mm. With usage of smaller supercharger pulley, these idlers will be upgraded to 90mm lower and 100mm upper idler to keep the belt tension. I will consider this upgrade when I install the 82mm pulley. 

































I love these gauges. The Aeroforce Interceptor (bottom) is amazing. Monitors and displays two parameters at the same time and it allows the user to set annunciators for alarming when certain parameters exceed limits. For my setup I will set the following alarms

- IAT2: Intake Charge Temperature: 150 F upper limit. Unfortunately it only works in Fahrenheits. 150F is considered as intake charge temperature max safe limit. Above this knock sensors usually fight really hard to pull a lot of timing to protect the engine. Ideally, if you ever see your supercharger setup running above 150F you should seriously consider a heat exchanger upgrade.
Like the AFCO unit VMP sells AFCO Dual Fan Heat Exchanger

- Engine Coolant Temperature: Ideally should stay below 220 F. If it is higher than you will run the risk of detonation if knock sensors can't for some reason pull timing fast enough.

AFR: Since I can not set an alarm for this because Annunciator functionality works all the time. For example, you can not set a limit to it only at WOT. However I choose to display the measured AFR at Bank1 on the first display.

- Spark Advance: Same story here as AFR. You cant set alarm for spark in certain conditions. So best is, display spark advance on the second display to make sure it is not some value like 20 at upper rpm doing WOT pulls. Normally for 85-82mm pulleys, 17-18 max spark advance is considered safe.

- Boost Gauge: I am still waiting for a special plug that will allow me to connect boost hose to the manifold. The gauge is installed but the hose is just measuring outside air pressure :) Hopefully next week it will work.

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